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Special Edition - Honey Adulteration
An emerging global fraud - China stands accused - The complete report
PART N°5


The English translation of the document, "Le scandale de la falsification de miel", follows.

This work was done, free of charge, by one of our members and not by a translation service. So, if it is not absolutely perfect, please be indulgent. You can always consult the original French document if something is not completely clear.


fleche_gauche.gif (2061 octets) Previous chapters

21. NOTES ON THE "SIMPLIFICATION" OF DIRECTIVE 74/409

As for chocolate, the European Union authorities have decided to "simplify" the directive covering Honey. This process, started
several years ago, are not proceeding in a very satisfactory manner.

General Board of Industry or General Board of Agriculture ?

Due to obscure historic reasons, honey enters under the competence of the General Board III, (Direction génerale III, E.1.Rond Point Schumann, 11 Bureau 3. 30. 1040 BRUXELLES, BELGIQUE)

Normally, the GB VI (Direction Génerale de l’Agriculture) administers the non-transformed agricultural product (which is the case for honey).

It is therefore logical that the European deputies, Consumers, National administrations and the Beekeepers have asked on numerous occasions, that the dossier come back to the GB VI, which it should have never left.

To this day, nobody, to our knowledge, has obtained a response.

This debate is not neutral and influences all the work to be done on the "simplification" of the Directive.

In effect, either honey is an agricultural product( as is a pear, a lettuce or wheat), and in this case it is for the GB VI to govern, or it is an Industrial product( like the syrups of maize, cane sugar and rice), where the GB III are legitimate in their role. In this case, one might as well conclude that : neither Bees nor Beekeepers are much use … Honey, who cares???

The BG III/ BG VI debate is not exclusively Aparian.

As(see "Le Canard Enchaîné n° 3936 dated 3rd April 1996), a top civil servant summed up "the mad cow disease" affair in the following way:

"A decade ago, the Animal Feed Producers’ lobby obtained the change in supervision, from the Board of Agriculture to that of Industry." Oh yes, why is that?. Response from the same expert: "Because the Board of Agriculture were a pain in the neck ruling on the products they could incorporate into their produce. It’s not that our colleagues in the Board of Industry are dishonest, but it’s not their job. They, on condition that no one puts real poisons into animal foodstuffs, such as Lead or Mercury, or that a whole area isn’t smoked out, they let them get on with it"

For Honey, the logic of the BG III is the same.

To the foreseen double question:

Nobody has, to this day, dared to respond negatively.

The discussions on the "simplification" of the directive are therefore limited to a technical debate on three major points and other details(details that are also important…)

The 3 major points are resumed from the letter sent on the 19th March last by the F.E.H.P.D.. to the General Secretariat of the Council of the European Community. (F.E.H.P.D.. Federation of European Honey Packers and Distributors, that is to say the union for all the conditioners, French included).

We are in total disagreement with the position taken by F.E.H.P.D. on each of these 3 points, for the reasons developed below.

1. THE MAXIMUM LEGAL LIMIT OF HMF FOR THE CONSUMER

( fixed at the moment at 40mg/kg).

Hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF) is a sugar from the degradation of Fructose naturally present in numerous products and is totally harmless. It exists at trace levels in all honeys at the moment of harvest.

The level increases with heating and ageing, and therefore acts as an excellent "witness of freshness"

Except for the 3 or 4 particular monoflorals, it is considered that a level of HMF

Consequentially, the limit of 40 mg/kg authorised by the actual directive, is totally reasonable and possibly, with a few exceptions, could be slightly reduced without causing a problem for the conditioners.

However the F.E.H.P.D demand to push this limit to 60 or 80 mg/kg. That is totally unacceptable. At this level, all the independent specialists will confirm, everything passes: old honey badly conserved, overheated, stocked for 6 months in full sunshine in the worst of conditions, etc…

It needs to be known that:

  1. In Europe, the Official Control Services,(DSV or DGCCRF) do not remove products from shop shelves unless they are toxic or dangerous.
  2. Each time there is an enquiry on the quality of honey in commerce, there one finds a few pots (see previous tables) that exceed the 40 mg/kg authorised (Removal of the merchandise never takes place. The same if there is a procedure, the non-conforming merchandise stays on the shelf until there is a judgement. Thus there is ample time to sell out; this explains what one so often finds on the "special offers" shelf.

The argument developed by the F.E.H.P.D. is deceitful enough. It pretends, of course without the precision of the above context that the disposition is too constraining, even though, once again it is not a question of price. (Effectively, in the wholesale market, each lot is controlled. With pollen analysis, the humidity and HMF are the two principal criteria tested. The higher the HMF or humidity levels the cheaper the honey, since, normally it is destined for industry under the designation of industrial or baker’s honey. Therefore, each time honey is found to be over the HMF limit? It is not because the legal limit is too low but uniquely because, in the pure tradition of elementary rules of disloyal competition, the underhand conditioner has supplied at low price merchandise of second or third quality).

The HMF criteria are a "pillar" in the control of honey quality, and, if it needs to be modified, it needs to be decreased not increased.

This said, it would be good to get a response to the question: "In case of non-conformity, is it utopian to hope for a strict rule, guaranteeing the immediate removal for resale to industry, of this type of merchandise? (As the whole concerned lot carries the same number)"

2. THE OBLIGATION TO MENTION THE ORIGIN

Honey is an archetypal "local product".

Each honey possesses of course characteristics of the plants from which it was gathered. But, as for wine, according to the soil, the same plants may give the honey a different taste and colour from one region to another. As a result, three items of information should appear on the label:

The nature of the product

As for our product: Honey (this at least!)

Thus, the consumer may distinguish it from a maple syrup, a preserve or any other product.

The floral origin

Each plant gives a different fruit. Honey is a by-product of a plant. Each plant secretes nectar from which a particular honey results: taste, consistence, colour, smell, therapeutic properties, etc…

So that the consumer is correctly informed, an indication of floral origin should be obligatory in the case of monofloral honey.

For polyfloral honeys, the vocabulary is not lacking, enabling a clear indication for a multifloral origin (Blossom, Mixed Flower, etc…).

The geographical origin

We remain with the same logic as found in the two previous points. Today’s consumer is a free and responsible individual who is master of his or her choice. Amongst others, It wishes to know the source of all that it consumes, as well as price per kilo, the weight and the date limit for consumption.

This is true even for basic foodstuffs.

So, for honey, the fact that it comes from such and such place is not without consequence : it is not the same product. We are therefore once again dealing with a fundamental question of principle .

The F.E.H.P.D. pretend that this too complicated to organise. Taking into account the fluctuations in price and harvest throughout the world, the conditioner continually change their suppliers(this is the argument put forward). They have no way of predicting the origin of the honey that is to go into pots. ?!?!? In place of an obligatory indication of geographical origin, the F.E.H.P.D. suggests a coverall statement "Blend from more than one country".

This argument is particularly fallacious : As in effect, already the pots carry the lot number and B.B.D.* which changes from day to day. This has not posed the slightest technical problem.

*Best Before Date.

The obligation to indicate the geographical origin is not a coercive or vexing measure imposed on the conditioners. Even so, the "hard" refusal of the latter to accept this elementary disposition of transparency and the respect for the consumer is particularly equivocal.

The technical aspects of Germany area good example to study succinctly, as with over 80,000 tonnes/year, it is the largest honey importer in Europe.

If one calculates the statistical average for imports over several years, they show:

China  32%
Vietnam 1 to 3%

Asian total 30 to 35%

Mexico 18%
Argentina 22%
Uruguay 3%
El Salvador, Cuba, Chile, Guatemala 3 to 10%

South American total 40 to 55%

Hungary 6%
Rumania 2%
Bulgaria 2%

Danube Valley total 10%

Turkey 6%

Essentially made up from Pine Honeydew, destined to "stretch" true Fir Honey,(epicea or abies pectinata), since it costs 3 or 4 times less
Rest of World 10 to 15% as follows :
Australia l2%
Canada 1%
New Zealand 0.5 to 2%
Almost always valorised with an indication of origin
European Union, France,  Italy, Greece, Portugal and Spain 2000 to 7000 tonnes according to year

To summarise, 90% of the honeys are imported

If the consumer wishes to know the origin of the product, it is not such a surrealistic particularity.

The final choice to the degree of precision rests with the conditioner who may label, according to the case:

Honey of the plain of Buenos Aires or Argentinean Honey

if there are several regions concerned,

Rio Negro Valley Honey or Uruguayan Honey

if there are several regions concerned,

Yucatan Honey, see from Chiapas or Mexican Honey

if there are several regions concerned,

If on the other hand, the conditioner is active in a less segmented sector, it may very well, if supplied from one or several countries of the continent, label as :

Blend of Honeys from South America.

The origin of the honey is correct and the consumer correctly informed.

One may also envisage the case where a conditioner wishes to blend certain honeys from Asia and from South America. Nothing is simpler. It is sufficient to label:

Blend of Honeys from South America and Asia.

There again, we are in a logic that poses no technical problems, strictly conforming to the obligation to indicate the origin and is perfectly respectful to the consumer.

This reasoning may be applied to any country or continent.

One remarks in passing that, under pressure from the integralists for "a free market" the French law n°76/717(even though the relevant passage is nothing more than a limpid draft), allows for the honeys of the European Union not to indicate the geographical origin.

This is abnormal.

Whatever the country, the consumer wants to know the origin of that which he or she is buying, region, island, country, peninsula, or group of countries. It’s a right, and would not halt any commerce.

In that which concerns us, we are unable to be anything than clashing head on with this scandalous claim(demand)of the F.E.H.P.D. who have in fact, no other motivation than to be able, in maintaining a certain haziness regarding labelling, to trick the less attentive consumer. It is in the same logic that the mention "Honey from different origins" is used. This is done so that the client understands "Blossom Honey".

For the moment , the administration against fraud is in accord with this situation. It would be desirable if the consumer associations took an interest in this problem as well.

3. ULTRA-FILTRATION

We have saved until the end the most revolting : ultra-filtration.

DEFINITIONS

Filtration: At extraction,(that is to say in the honey house of the Beekeeper) the honey passes through a filter(800 microns to 1mm.mesh) made from nylon or stainless steel: The craftsman’s equivalent to the household sieve.

At the conditioner’s, steel tubular filters(400 to 500 microns) are used.

This is normal, legal and respectful for the product since the size of the pollen grains varies according to plant species, on average between 10 and 100 microns. It also happens that, either at the Beekeepers, or at the conditioners, honey settles for several hours before being conditioned to allow for air bubbles to rise to the surface.

Ultra-filtration, forbidden up to the present moment for honey, requires, after heating to a high temperature, the use of:

Point n° 3 in the F.E.H.P.D. letter

Briefly, in a manner particularly perverse and underhand, what is being asked for, is no more and no less than the legalisation of ultra-filtration. One is able to note elsewhere (table 19 page 24) that the two honeys purchased in England are already ultra-filtered.

If the "simplification" of the directive gives rise to such a ignominy, there will be nothing left to simplify. In a very short period of time, the inescapable disappearance of pure and true honey to the profit of industrial syrups will take place.

TECHNICAL EXPLANATION

The pollen spectrum of a honey, is its "identity card". With ultra-filtration, as all or most of the pollen would be eliminated, the representative native pollen spectrum will be no longer be interpretable. Effectively, the same if nectar or honeydew are the origin of honey, one finds grains of parasitic pollen that do not modify taste or composition. They come from flowers visited by the bees as well as arriving on the wind. The mellissopalynological examination, will therefore always be the first analysis to be done, to verify its authenticity, whether origin floral or geographical as well as its state of freshness( fermentation yeast’s) and conservation. All the other analysis’s can only follow or flow from this one, and as well, it is undertaken at a reasonable charge.

With ultra-filtration all frauds become possible. One can even imagine the following operation: extract all the pollen from any monofloral honey, and add others from another different source, thereby "making" what ever you want. Of course there is not a sufficiently lucrative market at the present to support such a "heavy" manipulation, but, with ultra-filtration integrated into the "simplification" of the directive, this would become legal. This said, there is nothing to worry about: it will be much simpler to make honey from industrial syrups.

Ultra-filtration is the technique that permits all frauds. If it is legalised, true honey will disappear from the shops.

It is not possible to conclude the chapter on the "simplification" of the directive without evoking the manner in which the negotiations of the "working group" take place. For France, around the table, there are only administrators. We asked that for each meeting the two specialised technicians from the C.N.E.V.A. and D.G.C.C.R.F. laboratories may be present. It is really frustrating to note that whilst dealing with such "touchy" subjects, the best technicians are held from the debate.

Note: in the dossier on the AOC Fir Honey of the Vosges, the S.M.P.F. had to put down a appeal to the State Council. This procedure taking place concerns a technical detail. So promulgated, this AOC is "dead before it hatches. This the reason for which we are supported by the experts from I.N.R.A.,C.N.E.V.A. and the D.G.C.C.R.F. A mistake again in the honey sector is all that is required for the administration to simply pass the technical dossiers to their own technicians who are:

  1. competent
  2. independent
  3. and paid for that

22. ROYAL JELLY, WAX AND POLLEN

1. Royal Jelly

In the 1950’s, French Beekeeping "invented" the rational technique for the production of royal jelly.

Today, apart from those who collect for direct sale, there rests less than a dozen producers for the wholesale market. Their selling price is about 5,000 to 6,000 FF/kg(Retail price is between 10 and 20 FF per gram.)

Then, about 15 years ago the Chinese flooded the World market with this little product, their selling price was between 800 and 1,000 FF/ Kg

It appeared logical.

For an industrialised production, in a poor country where the workers are paid a misery to gather, cell by cell, 0.3 g. by 0.3 g. the precious substance, it seemed normal that the costs were divided by 5 or 6.

Today, the Chinese have the World monopoly for the Royal Jelly market, at an average price of 100 to 200 FF/Kg, transport and packaging included. Since one knows the constraints in production, even if the workers worked for free, nobody understands. It is a small product, unknown, (is there a laboratory in the world that is really interested in Royal Jelly?), and without real economic status. It is probably the reason for which nobody has tried to fathom out the "production" technique even though all those who understand the subject are convinced that there is a falsification somewhere.

2. Wax

Wax is also a "little product".

The beekeeper doesn’t "gather" specifically. Simply, each time one extract 100 Kg of honey, one recovers, naturally, 1 Kg of wax. It is then either reused by the Bee business, sold as candles or polish.

There is practically no structured bulk market at the level of the Beekeeping profession. The aspect, smell and colour are sufficient to appreciate its qualities. It is sold in quantities of a few kilograms at a time.

But, on the large industrial markets, the buyers were surprised to see their Chinese suppliers ask: "What physico-chemical criteria are you looking for?"…in other words "How would you like us to prepare it for you?".

3. Pollen

There is practically no Chinese pollen on the world market. It is true that it is not easy to falsify it. Not only does it need to be "made" but just as the bees do, turn into small pellets. For this product, the technique is not profitable enough.

Summary

Bees furnish Mankind 5 different products:

And therefore the plants that are visited determine the taste as well as its characteristics.


23. CONCLUSION

So, counterfeiting is everywhere: perfumes, watches, clothes, prestigious labels, industrial and mechanical parts…and now honey.

In most of the industrial sectors, the businesses generally have in place methods to combat it.

For Honey, the context is particular due:

  1. It is a small product and the operators concerned are almost always one man businesses disseminated all over the planet. Therefore there is no world leader susceptible to federate the individual energies.

  2. The counterfeiting is not on the level of an individual or a company, but organised on the scale of a country: China. Due to the necessity to survive, this counterfeiting is copied by the competitors. They couldn’t do anything other. Rather than giving moral lessons to such and such small country who were tempted to do the same, it needs association to sort out the problem. It is China who invented this fraud. It is thus through China that it must be stopped

  3. The consulted specialists are formal: practically all Chinese honey that is exported is adulterated.

  4. The ideal solution is the development of a 100% unstoppable and trustworthy analytical method. This is still to be discovered. For the moment, even the most rigorous controls do not offer total guarantee. Only 40 to 60% of the Chinese honeys are detected as adulterated. To arrive at this level of detection requires the most sophisticated methods available. Until now the fraudsters have a lead on the controllers.

  5. Beekeepers are far too weak, dispersed and disorganised to fight alone, against this curse. They need allies and, the first to be apparently concerned are the consumers.

One dares to hope, from this side, a salutary support, active and efficient.

After two years of enquiry throughout the entire world, this document carries all the information available at the present time: everybody thus has the possibility to verify it.

We are impatient to receive the help of the consumers.

However, it is not evident that even with this support that it will be sufficient to rapidly solve the problem.

Possibly there exists a radical solution, to moralise and clean up the honey market: obtain the mobilisation and active participation of the Supermarkets. (1)

Things are simple: in France, the regulation is the Honey Law n° 76/717 dated 22/7/1976. The Supermarkets could very easily, collectively, impose on all their suppliers precise conditions imposing:

  1. The total and scrupulous respect of this law, and in particular articles 1,2,5 and 6,

  2. The engagement on the part of the conditioners to no longer incorporate Chinese honey, neither pure or from a blend, into pots to be sold as table honey.(Even under the denomination of "industrial honey" or "bakers honey", for industrial preparations, this product is not conform.)

  3. The obligation to furnish for each lot coming from a high risk country, an analysis of d 13C according to the AOAC method (Hungary in particular, but also other origins in function of the blind controls which the concerned laboratories will not be lacking in the weeks to come).

We wait with the same impatience for the help of the Supermarkets. A loyal market can do no other than improve sales and is a benefit to the consumers.

(1) This has no similarity to Utopia. In effect, the claimed role of the supermarket, is to supply the consumer at the lowest price.

However, it has never been said that this objective should be attained by the method of counterfeiting.

To this day, it appears to us that:

If the Supermarkets have sold until the present the blends of industrial syrups under the name of honey, it is possible that they have been ignorant of the situation. Now they know, they can have nothing but the heart to stop this trade.


24. BIBLIOGRAPHY AND USEFUL ADDRESSES

punaise.gif (183 octets)Analytical methods, enquiries and scientific publications

punaise.gif (183 octets)Professional organisations

punaise.gif (183 octets)Technical Institute

punaise.gif (183 octets)Beekeeping teaching centres

punaise.gif (183 octets)Documentation

punaise.gif (183 octets)Laboratories

punaise.gif (183 octets)Administrations concerned by the "simplification" of the Honey Directive 74/409


25. Addition to chapters 3 and 7, concerning the results from Mass Spectrometer Analysis

Regarding this subject, chapters 3 and 7 are not very easy to understand. We reproduce the following explanation kindly furnished by Mr. Paul Stöber of EUROFINS laboratories.

"Method n° 991.41 of the A.O.A.C. (Association of Official Analytical Chemists) shows a formula of calculation which determines an apparent percentage for C4 sugar. As an acceptable maximum limit of C4 sugar, the apparent level of 7% was validated. This does not signify that 7% of exogenic C4 sugar is present, but rather, a significant value above this would be considered as a sure sign that C4 sugar is present.

Looking at the calculation formula, one realises that the significant percentage difference between C13 proteins and C14 sugars which corresponds to an apparent percentage of more than 7% for C4, is not a constant but a variable from the absolute value of the C13 sugars. In other words, one cannot calculate a fixed significant difference (-1 for a thousand or more) that would be indicative of adulteration.

It is true however, in practice, this significant difference is generally very close to –1 for a thousand or more.


26. A breath of fresh air

Counterfeiting, analysis, controls: for a treat like Honey, this dossier is far too off-putting and is a great shame. It would have been preferable to talk about taste, flavour and pleasure.

Recall there are as many different honeys as there are fruits in nature.

Bringing to mind at least one from the many: "Heath or Ling Honey (Heather Honey)" which is to Honey as caviar is to fish eggs.

It is a true curiosity of nature that it may be gathered from latitudes at the Arctic Circle to the Pyrenees, passing through Scotland or the Plateau of a Thousand Cows in France.

It is exemplary as a local product, original and far too unrecognised.

The World harvest is no more than a few hundred tonnes.

If we win this battle against adulterated honey, one may hope that one day, at least once a year (and why not Christmas time), the Supermarkets propose not only Heather Honey but a multitude of other rare honeys. A great progress in Gastronomy for the pleasure of many.

It is the final goal that we are looking for from this dossier.


We thank in particularly the specialists who wished, patiently to help us with the scientific and technical sections:


post_it.gif (274 octets) Syndicat des Producteurs de Miel de France

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Last update: 31/10/03

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